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3.0 swap, how to and other helpful information


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97 replies to this topic

#81 jbuff

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 10:56 AM

I haven't heard anyone that has just tried to swap from 2.4 to 3.0, just the 2.5 to 3.0...

no one has done it because its more work than its worth....id take a 3.0 swapped cloud with mild work over trying to build a 2.4 to be fast...in the end, the 3.0 will yield better results in the speed:money ratio


jess

#82 captainkirk

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 01:49 PM

Oh I'm sure that just having to buy a 3.0 motor and then sticking it in there would be a lot cheaper than standalone fuel maintenance system, turbo, manifold, internals, and all that other stuff needed.

I have asked before, but what kinda power and torque would the 3.0 give you compared to stock again?

#83 ecs

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 03:07 PM

There's quite a few things needing to be swapped from the 2.5L to the 3.0L. All the information on it can be found at the bottom in the yellow "bar" (1G 3.0L Engine Swap).

#84 captainkirk

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 04:55 PM

I looked it up, and the 3.0 you can swap in will give you about 200-205 hp and 205 lb/ft of torque. That's pretty nice IMO.

#85 stratus_zuel

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 06:22 PM

That looks great! I thought you had to use all the external parts from the 2.5, and basically the only thing from the 3.0 you were using was the block??? It looks like you just dropped the whole thing in there complete pretty much.

I haven't heard anyone that has just tried to swap from 2.4 to 3.0, just the 2.5 to 3.0...

Did you get any other pictures as the swap was being done?


I am sorry for the late reply... I've been busy with family and the other car (98 Neon R/T). I posted some pictures on Cardomain here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2127895 The biggest problems I have had with the car was the cam position sensor and EGR... The 3.0L I have didnt have the exhaust port on the front head. I should have pre-drilled one there but did not. Now, I get the CEL for too little flow from EGR. I have tried to dremel the hole with a few titanium bits but just have not had the room (even with removing the trasmission computer). Aside from that, the car is still running strong almost a year after the swap. I used the block and heads and didnt touch the timing as the engine only had 66k or so. Everything that made the 2.5L complete (intake/fuel rail to oil pan) was swapped over!!! I even used the 2.5L timing covers as the 3.0L versions did not fit. I kept the stock injectors as well. The car is thirsty though. I would agree with the 18-20 mpg estimate around town. That's still a little better than what I had! :lol:

Z

#86 Dan The Man

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 08:21 PM

Just to let anyone everyone know I have sucessfully swapped the 3.0L V6 in my Stratus!!! I started the project last year with many difficulties but I had it running today!!! Haven't taken it out for a performance test yet but its doing really good!! I am so glad to have finally done it and now I can be added to the list of people who have done it!

#87 RagingSun

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 03:51 PM

may i ask what injectors you ran the 3.0 or the 2.5. oh and welcome to the 3.0 club

#88 elcamino

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 09:59 PM

Hi,
I?m Falco from Germany, at first my english is not as good as yours but I hope you understand what I?m trying to say. I drive a 1997 Sebring Converitble (its a very rare car in Germany) and would like swap in the 3.0 Engine of a Mitsubishi Eclipse (also rare and hard to find). Now I have some questions about the swap.

1. Is there a difference at the engine (such as sensors harnesses etc) between the Manual transmisson and the atomatic transmission verson of the 6g72?? Can I take the Engine of a Eclipse with manual transmission ?
2. What kind of motor mounts did you use? StratusMank wrote the the orignal one?s are not stong enough and will break.
So I looked to the website of Deyeme Racing but I can just find one for the neon.
3. Should I do any modification an my transmission or is it strong enough?
4. Is it pssible to put the 2.5 front valuve cover on the 6g72 because in gemany every little ting that was changed on a car, have to be verifieded bei the TUEV. The TUEV is a test center for Cars and motorcycles that belongs to the government. Every verification cost a lot of money.

It would be great if you can help me.
Thank you,

Falco

Edited by elcamino, 03 February 2012 - 10:01 PM.


#89 trox

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 07:50 AM

You sent me an email but I'll just answer you here

Hi,
I?m Falco from Germany, at first my english is not as good as yours but I hope you understand what I?m trying to say. I drive a 1997 Sebring Converitble (its a very rare car in Germany) and would like swap in the 3.0 Engine of a Mitsubishi Eclipse (also rare and hard to find). Now I have some questions about the swap.

1. Is there a difference at the engine (such as sensors harnesses etc) between the Manual transmisson and the atomatic transmission verson of the 6g72?? Can I take the Engine of a Eclipse with manual transmission ?
There is no difference between manual or auto 6g72s. Either will mate to the 2.5 transmission.

2. What kind of motor mounts did you use? StratusMank wrote the the orignal one?s are not stong enough and will break.
So I looked to the website of Deyeme Racing but I can just find one for the neon.
I used the ones from Deyeme racing. If they don't make them anymore I don't know what to tell you. They should be strong enough unless you plan on some serious engine mods. Ragingsun might have an answer to this since he recently did a 3.0 swap

3. Should I do any modification an my transmission or is it strong enough?
I personally feel the transmission is crap. Mine lasted for 65,000 miles (5,000 with 3.0 swap) before I shot pins out the side of it. I think I've heard it will handle up to 300hp. On my second transmission I had the pins welded and put a shift kit in. No idea hows it's holding up and I only put about 2k mines on it before I got rid of the car

4. Is it pssible to put the 2.5 front valuve cover on the 6g72 because in gemany every little ting that was changed on a car, have to be verifieded bei the TUEV. The TUEV is a test center for Cars and motorcycles that belongs to the government. Every verification cost a lot of money.
Yes it bolts right on. You have to use the rear cover off the 2.5 anyways

It would be great if you can help me.
Thank you,

Falco



#90 elcamino

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 01:26 PM

thank you for your quick answer!

I have an other question, its about the injectors. Witch one did you use? some wrote, the ones of the 2.5 run too lean.

#91 fst2qtrmile

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 05:03 PM

From everything I have learned, the 2.5 injectors will work but will run the car lean. This isnt good for a motor. Although some people are getting by, I wouldnt trust it long term. To compensate for the lean mixture, you obviously need to add fuel. One way would be to install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and increase base pressure. Another way would be to use a piggy back computer like an SAFC but because our engines are on speed density, you cant add fuel because the MAP sensor puts out a 5v reference and you cant increase the voltage over 5v to put in more fuel. So my theory is install bigger injectors like the ones on the 3.0 and then use an SAFC to take away the voltage to bring fuel mixture down. That is the best way I am seeing this being done and that is what I am in the process of doing. My donor motor came with a whole engine wiring harness so I already have the injector clips and will just wire them up. I just have to confirm if the injectors are the same impedance and need to confirm wire colors to match up.

And I have also heard, we have self learning computers that will probably cancel out any "tuning" you do with an SAFC but we will see. I am hoping not.

Edited by fst2qtrmile, 08 February 2012 - 05:04 PM.


#92 elcamino

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 02:03 PM

Oh ok, that are bad news. Why does the 3.0 Injectors not work? Is the fuel pressure not big enough for those injectors?
Whats the difference between the 3.0 and the 2.5 lower manifold? On pictures it looks like the same.
At the moment I searching for an Engine, and maybe I get one from Poland (850 Miles away) but this one has no manifold.

#93 fst2qtrmile

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 11:20 PM

The 3.0 injectors work, just need to wire them up and car will run rish instead of lean

#94 ecs

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 02:22 PM

Chiming in kind of late, but just from my understanding you should be able to find injectors that will flow higher than the stock 2.5L but less than the 3.0L. I haven't looked at the flow rates in a LONG time, however if they really are that close, then like mentioned you could lower the fuel pressure on the bigger injectors to get the mixture right. Regardless of whatever method you use, you're going to want to invest in a wideband o2 sensor so that you know exactly where your AFR is at. Spending all the money in the world for fuel control won't help if you aren't able to accurately gauge if you're lean or rich.

#95 trox

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 07:26 AM

Chiming in kind of late, but just from my understanding you should be able to find injectors that will flow higher than the stock 2.5L but less than the 3.0L. I haven't looked at the flow rates in a LONG time, however if they really are that close, then like mentioned you could lower the fuel pressure on the bigger injectors to get the mixture right. Regardless of whatever method you use, you're going to want to invest in a wideband o2 sensor so that you know exactly where your AFR is at. Spending all the money in the world for fuel control won't help if you aren't able to accurately gauge if you're lean or rich.


Exactly, I ran 2.5L injectors w/ a wideband and the amount it ran lean was never going to hurt anything...now If I had put a turbo on it I would have definitely had to do something about it

For some reason I think mustang injectors work with the 3.0 fuel rail but it's been awhile and I could be wrong

Edited by trox, 21 February 2012 - 07:27 AM.


#96 StratusMank

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 04:22 PM

Hello! Anyone around still considering the 3.0l swap? :D

#97 RagingSun

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 05:20 PM

already completed mine. running 3.0 injectors no issue

#98 sgtmyers88

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Posted 11 June 2018 - 03:44 AM

Now that I finally got another clean, good running Cloud that was dealership maintained, garage kept, and has a straight body (no wrecks/rust) and no weird electrical issues and I also no longer have a car payment from having a 2nd car, I really am pondering the idea of a swap someday in the future. While the stock 2.5L is the strongest running one of the 4 clouds I have owned and it recently breached past 150k miles, I still would love to do it for the bragging rights. Either finding a low mileage Eclipse GTS 6g72 3.0L motor or doing something more ambitious... a Diamante 6g74 3.5L motor. Nobody has ever tried to swap in the 3.5L? According to the guys from what I gathered on the Eclipse tuner forums (Club3g) who have used it for direct swaps on their cars it is apparently just a bored out 3.0L just as the 3.0L is a bored out 2.5L on the Cloud cars. Also the 3.5L seems to be plentiful and cheap. lol http://www.club3g.co...discussion.html

 

Here is the 3.5L Swap How To: http://www.club3g.co...g74-engine.html

With a few modifications combining this with our 3.0L Swap How To, it could be made possible I think.

Of course the only real wild card here is will the stock engine computer be able to handle it.


Edited by sgtmyers88, 11 June 2018 - 03:50 AM.