First you need to find a motor donor cars are as follows;
99-00 Mitsubishi Galant ES
00-04 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT or GTS
01-04 Dodge Stratus R/T or coupe
01-04 Chrysler sebring coupe
Refer to your chiltons or haynes manual on how to remove your 2.5 V6 you can either take the transmission out or leave it in. If you opt to leave the transmission in please be carefull when installing the 3.0 that you do not damage the flexplate!!!
Preferrably have each engine on an engine stand but if not definately get the 3.0 on a stand opposite of the pulleys. Now what you need to do is strip down your 3.0. The only things that you will need on the 3.0 are as follows;
the block and heads should be kept intact including cams
the front valve cover
timing belt (if your donor motor has over 40,000 miles on it you might as well replace it know you will never have an easier time)
OPTIONAL fuel injectors with both parts of the harness and clips as well as the lower intake manifold(you will need to sever your 19lb injectors to splice these 21lb injectors in I did not do this)
OPTIONAL (required for emissions) you will need to tap the side of the head to run your EGR valve opposite of the pulleys about 1 1/2 inches below the valve cover there are exhaust ports and the one one the far right you will need to tap into on the side of the motor you should see to threaded bolt holes if you remove your EGR valve off of your 2.5 you can use the 2 bolts and the gasket as a template and just simply use a drill and drill right through.
all other parts will not be used no accesories if you had a complete motor you should have pulled off the oil pan rear, valve cover, alternator, power steering pump, distributor, cap and rotor, A/C pump, exhaust mannifolds, starter, oil filter adapter, plugs and wires, water x-pipe, and the intake manifold and throttle body assembly.
On the top of the 3.0 there is a crank sensor with a wire coming off of it just simply snip the wire and cap it off or tpe it off as the 2.5 computer will not use this.
Time to strip down that 2.5 and transfer everything over. Start by removing the entire harness andintake manifold and set tthem to the side it will go on last. Next remove the cap, rotor and distributor and install the on the 3.0 but make sure to inspect them and replace the cap and rotor if necesary. Next remove the exhaust manifolds and set them aside and remove the starter and install it on the 3.0. Remove the oil filter and adapter and install them on the 3.0 this would also be a great time to replace the oil filter. Remove the rear valve cover and install it on the 3.0. Remove the crank pulley and install it on the 3.0 making sure it is torqued on correctly. Remove the power steering pump and bracket and install it on the 3.0. Remove the alternator and bracket and only install the bracket on the 3.0 setting aside the alternator and again great time for easy replacement. Remove the oil pan and when installing it two of the holes on the transmission side( the two that are either side of the rear main seal) will not line up correctly you can either RTV the crap out of it or simply drill new holes(which is what I did) it is also a good idea to replace the rear main seal on the 3.0 while you are in there. Now install your exhaust manifolds using new gaskets. OPTIONAL this is where you will be installing the EGR valve and tube. Now comes time to deciede whether which injectors to use which ever you deceide use the 2.5 fuel rail and isatall the lower manifold from the same engine as the injectors but be sure to use new intake manifold gaskets. Now we have more options whether or not to use the upper intake manifold brackets they will not fit on the 3.0 without modification you need to grind them down or plasma cut them but remember how much of a PITA it is to remove your manifold with those brackets (I modified mine and installed them and deceided not to bolt the manifold to them what a waste of time and energy IMO) so, if you did modify them install them, if not, good for you! Now remove your water x-pipe and install it on the 3.0. Plugs and wires are next (ok cheapo) replace them with new ones don't be a total stinge on this build buy a nice set of plugs and wires and put them on that 3.0! Last but not least install the wiring harness
Ok you should be ready to put that 3.0 in your Stratus/Cirrus/Sebring now follow the Haynes/Chilton manual.
Now that you have the 3.0 in your car install the upper intake manifold using a new gasket and replace your throttle body gasket. Now install your alternator.
Now we need to plug in the rest of those harness plugs, man those down by the transmission are a pain if you left the transmission in aren't they? Wait a second you thought you could fire it up now huh? Nope not done yet, install your power steering belt and serpentine belt, are we forgetting somthing? Yes OIL, COOLANT and TRANSMISSION FLUID!!!! I don't know how many builds I've seen go bad because of forgetting to put oil in. Now one final check and fire her up!!
Make sure you drive around for at least 500 miles before getting on it prefferably 2000 miles give the computer time to adjust and make sure you have everything going right.
I AS WELL AS STRATUSPHERE ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR FAULTY INSTRUCTIONS OR ADVICE GIVEN ON INSTALLATIONS REFER TO LOCAL LAWS AND REGULATIONS ON MOTOR SWAPS AND GET PLENTY OF ADVICE FROM THOSE OF US THAT HAVE PIONEERED THESE AND HAVE GOTTEN OVER MANY HEADACHES
Edited by stratilover, 01 January 2005 - 12:20 PM.